Pemba and Mafia Island: Quieter Alternatives to Zanzibar

Zanzibar's main island, Unguja, is beautiful but increasingly busy. For travelers who want a more remote finish to their safari, Tanzania has two lesser-known island options: Pemba to the north and Mafia to the south.

Both are quieter, less developed and particularly rewarding for divers and nature lovers. They also require a little more planning and flexibility. Here is what to expect from each.

Pemba Island: Green Hills and Deep Reefs

Pemba is part of the Zanzibar archipelago, lying north of Unguja. It is hillier and greener, with dense clove plantations, mangroves and small villages where life has changed relatively little. Tourism here is low-key, with a limited number of lodges spread around the coast.

Pemba is best known for its diving. The Pemba Channel drops off steeply, creating dramatic walls and drift dives. Misali Island, a protected area off the west coast, is popular for snorkeling and diving. Many sites here suit experienced divers because of currents.

Mafia Island: Marine Park and Whale Sharks

Mafia lies off the coast south of Dar es Salaam and is administered as part of mainland Tanzania, not Zanzibar. Much of the surrounding water falls within Mafia Island Marine Park, which protects coral reefs, mangroves and seagrass beds.

Mafia is famous for seasonal encounters with whale sharks, typically during the northern hemisphere's winter months, although sightings are never guaranteed. Turtles nest on some beaches, and nearby Chole Island has historic ruins and a relaxed village atmosphere.

How They Compare With Zanzibar

Choosing between the islands depends on what you want from your beach days:

• Crowds: both islands see far fewer visitors than Unguja.
• Accommodation: fewer, smaller lodges and a more limited choice of budgets.
• Beaches: lovely stretches exist, but the islands are better known for underwater life than resort-style beaches.
• Culture and history: Stone Town has no real equivalent, so consider a night there en route.
• Nightlife: very little, which is exactly the point for many visitors.

Getting There

Both islands are reached mainly by small aircraft. Pemba has flights from Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam, and Mafia is most often reached from Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar. Schedules are less frequent than on the main routes and can change, so build in flexibility. Soft bags and strict luggage limits apply on these flights.

Ferries do run to Pemba, but schedules and conditions vary, and for most of our guests flying is the more comfortable choice.

Who These Islands Suit

Pemba and Mafia are ideal for divers, birdwatchers, kayakers, honeymooners seeking privacy, repeat visitors to Tanzania and anyone who prefers nature to nightlife. They are less suitable if you want lots of restaurant choice, shopping or a busy resort atmosphere. For families, check carefully whether your chosen lodge welcomes young children and has suitable facilities.

Medical facilities on both islands are basic compared with Unguja or Dar es Salaam, so comprehensive travel insurance that includes evacuation cover is especially important. If you have specific health needs, talk to your doctor before choosing a remote island stay.